Well, first of all, in our humble (and somewhat self-centred) opinion, “when will I go?” is as an important question as “what will I do?”!
May is the driest month of the year, especially in recent decades when the main summer months seem to have gotten wetter and wetter. Loop Head is also significantly quieter and at its peak with its floral displays of sea thrift or ‘sea pinks’ in full bloom on cliff coast and Spring has well and truly sprung into early Summer.
A 3-day break at Pure Space in Querrin can be the perfect way to see the Loop Head Peninsula. This area is unique because it’s “the island that isn’t an island”, where you have the sheltered Shannon Estuary on one side and the wild Atlantic on the other.
Let’s go with the theme “Woods & Waves” for your itinerary. It fits well with Pure Space, with its emergent on-site woodlands and our coastal location.
Day 1: The Forest & The Estuary
- Morning: Make the most of the day before checking in to Pure Space and explore Kilrush Woods & its celebrated Vandeleur Walled Garden, which is only a 20 min drive from Pure Space. Walk the Walled Garden and the surrounding 400 acres of woodland, which features some of the oldest broadleaf forest in the area.
- Lunch: Grab a coffee and a fresh scone at the Woodland Bistro right at the centre in the gardens and head to Pure Space, perhaps taking the coastal route to Kilrush via Cappa.
- Afternoon: Settle into Pure Space. Check into your cabin. Take a 15-minute stroll down to Querrin Pier. In May, the water in the estuary is calm and perfect for a peaceful “beach-combing” walk, crab fishing if kids are in tow, or even a quick dip if you’re brave enough!
- Evening: Cook a simple meal at Pure Space, or head to The Long Dock in Carrigaholt (10 mins away), which is an award-winning seafood pub and is very cosy for a pair of friends or a couple.
Day 2: The Wild Edge (Loop Head)
- Morning: Dolphin Watching – Head back to Carrigaholt for a Dolphin watching adventure. The mouth of the Shannon is home to one of Europe’s largest pods of Bottlenose Dolphins. May is a great time to see them as they work the currents in search of a meal and occasionally put on a show for onlookers.
- Lunch: Picnic at the Bridges of Ross. These were natural sea arches carved out of the rock, with one remarkable bridge still standing. There is a beautiful, easy 2km coastal walk here that feels like you’re on the edge of the world.
- Afternoon: Drive to the very tip of the peninsula and visit Loop Head Lighthouse! In May, the cliffs are teeming with galleries of nesting seabirds. Look for the giant “ÉIRE” sign laid out in stones on the grass, which is a relic from WWII, but also do take care on the unguarded cliff edges.
- Evening: Have an early meal in Kilkee, maybe al fresco in Naughton’s Yard, or indoors in one of the many other options available ‘in town’.
Once you’re sated, head back to Pure Space and book their wood-fired barrel sauna. It’s the best way to warm up after a day of Atlantic breezes, or a tide-dependant dip in the sea. Check out https://kilkee.rocks for swimming times in Kilkee and current tidal info (tidal info also good for Querrin).
Day 3: The Kilkee Cliffs & The “Pollock Holes”
- Morning: Kilkee Cliff Walk is the “local” alternative to the Cliffs of Moher. It’s a 5km, or 8km, loop starting from Kilkee town. It’s spectacular, free, and far less crowded that the more celebrated alternative to the North. You’ll see “Intrinsic Bay” and the jagged rock formations known as “The Puffing Holes”, as you walk from the carpark up to the highest point, known as ‘Lookout’. From the top, on a good d
ay, you can see the Aran Islands in the middle ground to the North, with the hills of Connemara silhouetted in the background, as well as great view over the immediate cliffscape. What out for nesting Ravens and soaring Gannets, all being monitored by the keen-eyed Peregrine falcon.- Lunch: The Diamond Rocks Café is located at the bottom of the cliff walk, it has great views and hearty soup & sandwiches. Alternatively, stroll over the beach and have lunch in one of the many other cafés on and around O’Curry Street.
- Afternoon: If the tide is out check out the Pollock Holes, which are right next to the Diamond Rocks café. These natural rock pools serve as outdoor swimming pools. Even if you don’t swim, the marine life in the clear water is fascinating.
On the way back to Pure Space, stop by The Flying Alpaca in Querrin for a quirky “alpaca trek”, or just to pick up some of their handmade eco-soap. - Evening: Back to Pure Space, cook that simple pasta dish, or book a pizza-making session with Kevin, and enjoy a campfire at your own tent or cabin, or join light the communal campfire for some social smores and marshmallows, washed down with some beverages and campfires tales.
Other thoughts…
Pure Space is within easy reach of the Burren. It being May, and if you’ve an extra day, consider a trip to see the wildflowers of the Burren. Loop Head will give you the ‘island-like’ escape and sense of wild isolation, but the Burren in May is a sight to behold, albeit a lot busier than the Loop. A great walking option on the Burren, is the Lough Avalla Farm Loop!
Also, if you’re 3-day visit spans a Wednesday, or a Saturday, you’ll have a chance to drop in to one of Trea’s not-to-be-missed yoga classes. Just the thing to set you up for a day’s exploration on the Loop Head Peninsula!!!
As they say around here, “You’ll be blown away!”
Essential May Packing List
- Layers: West Clare May can have 20°C sunshine and 10°C Atlantic winds in the same hour.
- Binoculars: Essential for the dolphins and the seabirds on the cliffs, as well as basking sharks that are often feeding near the cliffs in May.
- Swimwear: For sauna or swims!
